22nd July. Camp Azilan, Chefchaouen

20^th July Moulay Bousselham

A picture post card setting. The sea to the west, an inlet leading to a large lake. A series of row boats tug at mooring in the deeper channel. On the opposite side sits the tomb of Abou Said, a Sufi Mystic who died here in 951. Followers make pilgrimages to his grave, many ferried across the water in the small boats.

The campsite here is reputed to be thick with mosquitoes in the summer, so far we haven't seen one so here's hoping. It is a very nice camp with a new toilet block, plenty of shade, and hot water when it's available. It appears some larrikins had a go at the system recently, it should be working by tomorrow.

It was a pleasant drive today through fertile country. Market gardens is the big thing here aided by irrigation from the two rivers that flow through.

We thought Ramadan had already started but it appears it starts tomorrow. The Moroccans work their starting date on the actual sighting of the moon or whatever they work on, not on calculations that seem to be the case in most other Islamic countries. We were speaking to a Belgian who is married to a Moroccan and has a house here. He says they respect the people by also following the precepts laid down.

21^st July

There was fighting in the main square today. A bystander put his finger to his head and twisted it 'First day of Ramadan' he said 'Some go crazy!' There was a distinct air of anticipation evident this morning. Most shops were closed and streets quiet. A couple of men I spoke to reckoned it was good to have this month of fasting. Not in the religious sense but to cleanse the body, change the system around for a month. From sunrise to sunset they are not allowed food, drink of any type, smoking and sex. One person was upset the Olympics were being held during Ramadan which meant Muslim athletes would be handicapped unless they were given special dispensation from their emirs to eat their special diets.

We decided to eat out tonight. There is a restaurant next to the camp, have never seen anybody in it but didn't feel like walking up 100 stairs to the town proper. I went in about 7pm and spoke to a short muscle-bound fellow in singlet. Yes, they could do a fish tagine come back in an hour. I had my reservations especially as I forgot to ask the price. We went back at 8, the only people there was the bloke in the singlet and two mates sitting down to a meal. One got up and went into the kitchen while the other two beckoned for us to join them, we politely said we would not like to interrupt their meal and sat down nearby. The tagine came out followed a few minutes later by plates and utensils, I had forgotten they normally eat with their fingers from a communal dish. It was delicious. Plenty of olive oil turning the potatoes a golden brown and tomatoes and onions well cooked. Fish small but succulent. It was one of the tastiest we had eaten. All for less than $7 total. Talking afterwards it appeared they were from the desert but come to Moulay Boussalham for the summer months to find work. We learnt afterwards it is best to order tagines at least two hours in advance so they can be prepared properly and cooked slowly.

Earlier we had sundowners with a Danish family who pulled in this afternoon. Morten had thoughts of doing some Sahara 4 wheel driving and other derring do in his Landcruiser but after hitting the inland with temps as high as 52c they have decided to stick to the coast. He has a good friend living in Palmerston North whom I think I may have gone to agricultural school with his father whose surname is Thoms. We are making further enquiries. Small world if it turns out that way.

22^nd July Camping Azilan, Chefchaouen

Heading inland the road initially took us through irrigated land before climbing into drier rolling hills and finally mountains. The temperature rose but with the humidity decreasing it was bearable. A sign at Ouezzane not far from Chefchaouen read 42c and it had been hotter before that. But this town is high, 700 metres, which makes a difference. The view from the campsite is very impressive with lights on a village two thirds of the way up an impressive mountain, visible in the evening dusk. Chefchaouen is famous for its blue houses perched on the side of the mountain. The camp site is higher still and looks down on part of the town. The Garmin had tried to put us up a one way street but a friendly taxi driver came to our rescue explaining the route in French which I was able to understand quite well. The time in these Francophile countries seems to be bearing fruit.