14th July Essaouira

13^th July. Riad Nkhala, Essaouira. Morocco.

One of the things you must have in your luggage when travelling through these countries is a good pair of ear plugs. Last night we camped at the small campsite on the edge of Essaouira where there were a few campervans and backpackers including 20 or so young Belgians who partied on until 4am or later. Most annoying especially as the night before we had been kept awake by a nearby club that played loud music to the early hours in Agadir. We find the silicone ones that mould into the outer ear the best.

Still, today has been good, I think Joan enjoyed her birthday especially the retail therapy. Essaouira is a shoppers paradise with a good range of exotic goods from West African masks to Saharan herbs and spices. We found the riad where we had stayed 7 years ago, Riad Nkhala. Right in the middle of the medina it is a stones throw from the battlements that surround the old town. Marrakech is more famous but Essaouira has a lovely feel to it with its mist, rough Atlantic surf and old walls. At 10pm the people are still promenading through the squares while kids play in the mist filtered streets. She appreciated all the emails and phone calls she received.

Nice to have completed our malaria prevention regime after three months. Doxycycline capsules seem to have no side effects on us but three months is meant to be as long as they should be taken at one time. Just have to be careful on sun exposure.

Nice to catch up with news on Al Jazeera and to swap a couple of books. Joan had started to enjy Tolstoy on Kindle but Sadie Jones has saved her with 'Small Wars'!