15th June. Bamako Mali

 Easiest 400km drive of the trip today to Bamako. Staying at a lovely camp that has closed due to the lack of visitors since the coup. Jean has shown us a new road to Senegal meaning we will be able to get across the border earlier tha n expected. Unsafe to travel to the north still. Gary

11^th June. Ouagadougou. BF.

Not sure if the signs are correct up town but at least 2 of them read 43c. It is very hot, dry, but still not pleasant to spend too long outside.

Last night we met Georges & Connie. Georges is attached to the Luxembourg Embassy in Ouaga and has been very helpful in giving us up to date info on the present situation in this part of the world. I first contacted him when planning the trip as they had traveled down West Africa a couple of years ago and I had been needing further details on parts of the trip. He was always happy to oblige. Good to put a face to a name. Connie assists the administrator of a large orphanage. They spent 2 years travelling in Sth America, whetting our appetite somewhat. Luxembourg has many aid projects in the Sahel that warrants embassies here and in Dakar.

Had a good day today. Mali visa in 30 minutes, Senegalese one in 3 hours. Having the Senegalese one means we don't have to hang around Bamako getting it there. Should be able to pass through Mali in 3-4 days. Georges said that things could heat up shortly when the army tries to regain the northern cities from the Tuareg rebels.

I had a break from driving today when we went back to pickup the passports. Taxis here are mainly clapped out Mercs. The one that took us there came to a stop with the driver climbing under the car to reattach the gears or something. Then we continued the trip in 2^nd gear, revving like mad as we sped along. Coming back that vehicle was slightly better.

Tomorrow we head Bobo-Dioulasso in the west of the country. A pretty town in an interesting area.

12^th June. On way to Parc National de Deux-Bales. BF

Wish Joan had been more assertive and I knew deep down, with water lying everywhere, the chances of elephants coming to the waterhole near the camp was zilch. But I pushed on over a diabolical track, a local boy riding shotgun on the side to guide us. LP said the camp, only 7kms from the main road, was very nice. When we finally reached the encampement there was only a caretaker there. The waterhole was part of a fast flowing muddy river with no chance of seeing any animals let alone elephants. He wanted $32 for the night, it was 6pm by this time and we weren't going to hand over that sort of money. So we headed back, the boy once again on the sideboard. On the edge of the park was a good place to camp but felt it very unfair to get the bloke to walk home. We continued with darkness setting in until he tapped on the roof. He had worked out a compromise, he was now close enough to walk, and we could go back to our camp. All this done in sign language, a very intelligent lad.

Setting up camp in the dark with a herd of cattle finding their own way back to the compound. Silent ghosts passing by. The odd one would stop and stare before continuing. Two girls in a donkey cart laden with water, gave us a friendly wave as they plodded along. Donkeys are the mode of transport up here.

The morning was spent arranging the Green Card Ins for Europe. Normally quite a simple ahel job but with the AU phone not working in BF it meant the NAB couldn't text us with the confirmation number for the International transfer. Emma, at home at the moment, came to the rescue.

14^th June. Chutes de Farako, Near Sikasso, Mali.

N11 12'33.6” W005 27'00.9”

The waterfalls aren't much, just a metre or so drop, but the setting is a perfect place to bushcamp the night. A wide expanse of flat rock which continues into the river with the water trickling over various branches. A large tree offered shade for us to stop early. We were surprised to see a hammerkop pottering around near the river. One of our favourite African birds, we first saw them in Ethiopia then down east Africa and around the south. Now we have seen them in the Sahel in the west. They have such a distinct shaped head. Storm has finally hit us bringing an appreciated drop in the temperature.

So into Mali. I always intended going this route but the coup did cause 2^nd thoughts but things have quietened in this part of the country. The alternative was to travel through 3-4 further countries with the Guinea roads reputed to be very difficult to traverse in the wet which is now. The border crossing was again less than an hour with both sides knowing what to do with the carnet. The old immigration officer was a little confused though trying to fill the forms we usually fill out ourselves for us. Gave up on 'profession' we said retraite which means retired but how we said it confused him no end.