14th July Essaouira

13^th July. Riad Nkhala, Essaouira. Morocco.

One of the things you must have in your luggage when travelling through these countries is a good pair of ear plugs. Last night we camped at the small campsite on the edge of Essaouira where there were a few campervans and backpackers including 20 or so young Belgians who partied on until 4am or later. Most annoying especially as the night before we had been kept awake by a nearby club that played loud music to the early hours in Agadir. We find the silicone ones that mould into the outer ear the best.

Still, today has been good, I think Joan enjoyed her birthday especially the retail therapy. Essaouira is a shoppers paradise with a good range of exotic goods from West African masks to Saharan herbs and spices. We found the riad where we had stayed 7 years ago, Riad Nkhala. Right in the middle of the medina it is a stones throw from the battlements that surround the old town. Marrakech is more famous but Essaouira has a lovely feel to it with its mist, rough Atlantic surf and old walls. At 10pm the people are still promenading through the squares while kids play in the mist filtered streets. She appreciated all the emails and phone calls she received.

Nice to have completed our malaria prevention regime after three months. Doxycycline capsules seem to have no side effects on us but three months is meant to be as long as they should be taken at one time. Just have to be careful on sun exposure.

Nice to catch up with news on Al Jazeera and to swap a couple of books. Joan had started to enjy Tolstoy on Kindle but Sadie Jones has saved her with 'Small Wars'!

12th July. Essaouira, Morocco

 12th July. Arrived in windy Essaouira where we will spend a couple of nights in a hotel for Joan's birthday. A favourite Moroccan city but teeming with tourists. Write again soon

 3^rd July. Parc National de Diawling, Mauritania. (40kms over border)

It's annoying when time is wasted as it was with these insurance papers. It appears they arrived last Tuesday but the notification slip wasn't put into the post box. The PO bloke we spoke to on Friday before we headed south checked after we had gone, found it in the registration bundle, but had no way of contacting us.

Still, we are now in Mauritania a short distance over the border. There are two crossings into this country, at Rosso and the one we took, Diamma. Rosso has a bad reputation of con men, tricksters and hangers on. It is the commercial crossing. Diamma was better but for the first time, we forked out money for the gendarmes to do their job. $10 on the Senegalese side, $13 across the border. At least the Mauritanian bloke had a smile on his face and was very helpful organising the insurance.

We are camped in the middle of a wind swept plain. What looks like salt bush is the only vegetation. The only sign of life are a group of beautiful bee eaters flying over a dried water hole. In the distance stands a 3 storey building completely alone surrounded by a perimeter fence.

W hen we came to leave the ruined hotel this morning, the young caretaker wasn't to be seen. We had parked in soft sand the previous night to get a good sea breeze, but coming to get out this morning I had difficulty. Finally made it then had to take the locked gate off the hinges to get out. He would be puzzled how we got out when he sees the tyre tracks. We did leave some money for him.

4^th July. Hotel Sabah, Nouakchott, Mauritania.

I woke this morning to the booming call of the Abysinnian ground Hornbill. Didn't see them but quite unmistakeable. It was an interesting drive to the asphalt with the reed covered Senegal River bank on one side and waterways then sand dunes on the other. This country is almost all sand and camels are becoming common.

The hotel where we are camped is another person's dream gone. Two years ago some overlanders reported that this hotel was showing signs of wear but you could still get waiters to serve you drinks while lounging on the beach chairs under thatch umbrellas. The umbrellas and some of the chairs are still there but in differing states of disrepair. Most of the chalets have bits missing, A/C units hanging by a thread. The dogs are more prevalent than the guests and the swimming pool is now a rubbish dump. But the situation is great overlooking the Atlantic, there is a good breeze to drop the temperature and they do have hot water which is a godsend after 5 days without a shower.

We hit Nouakchott abot 1pm and thought we might get what we wanted then head towards the oasis at Atar. But things took longer than planned, it was 3pm by the time we were read, and very hot. Hence the stay over.

Joan had a nasty experience today and the first such happening on the trip. I went to get money out of an ATM but had to go to three before I could find one that accepted our cards. Took longer than planned. While away a bloke opened the driver's door (we have become lax in locking it) gabbled some unintelligible to her and showing her something on his phone. She then noticed his right hand was creeping under my seat where I keep my brief case carrying all our important documents and had his hand on the handle. She gave a shout and pushed him out yelling at him to get out you bastard! Some store vendors heard her shout and witnessed the aftermath, their raised thumbs acknowledging the good job she had done. As I said, we have felt so safe on this trip that sometimes your defenses drop. It was a new city in a new country, the people now area mix of black and berber, we should have been more careful. Lesson learnt. Ray & Avril, the Australians we have been corresponding with, spent 11 months in Africa with the theft of a shovel their only theft, they get to Spain and have their backpack broken into and Avril's wallet stolen.

The fiches are finally coming into their own here in Mauritania. In the first 24 hours we have handed out 5 to different gendarmes. If we didn't have them it would mean continuous filling out of forms. We just hand one over and take off. So simple.

5^th July. Hotel El Waha, Atar, Mauritania

The Adrar is the jewel in Mauritania's Crown. An area of barren rocky mountains with little or no vegetation rising from dry wadis with seemingly deserted mud houses on either side of dusty streets. Atar is the main town and with temperatures soaring we have taken to an chambre acclimatise for the night. Looking back this is just the 6^th hotel we have stopped in due to the heat. Not bad in almost 4 months. Mauritania is desert and today was a typical example of the scenery. We drove 440 kms with desert ranging from white and golden dunes, endless billiard-table flat plains and stoney sections. Even so, it wasn't really boring with considerable activity happening all around us.

From Atar, to get back onto the main road at the Moroccan border crossing, the usual route is to follow the railway line on a track as it heads west some 400kms. Problem has arisen in as much as the local people say that that track is not in good condition and advise not to take it. The two options are to drive all the way back to Nouakchott then up to the border. A trip of some 900kms. The alternative is to put the bakkie on the daily train that passes through a town some 120kms from where we are and go on that. It takes some 12 hours but the cost we think is not bad. We are to make enquiries tomorrow at the gendarmerie in town.

The train starts its journey at the mining town of Zouerat, some 200kms further north. It is the longest train in the world stretching some 2.5kms in length. They have attached the passenger cars on the end as an easy way for people to get to the coast.

7^th July. Near Rail Line Northern Mauritania.

Things didn't work out as planned. We drove north to where the train passes through on a badly corrugated roas only to find it would take at least three days to get things organized. On the other hand, everybody we spoke to including three separate gendarmes, reckoned the track that runs parallel with the rail line was good. So we filled up with petrol and headed off at 5.30pm. Thought we would at least make a start and camp out on the edge of the piste. The track was good at the start but soon turned into sand dunes. I was caught unawares at the first one but after reversing out of it, dropping the tyre pressure to half and sorting out the correct gear was soon on our way. That night we camped near the rail line, as we were sitting down in the dusk after eating, the west bound train hauled into sight. It wasn't as long as we expected but in the early hours of the morning another one appeared, much longer than the first. It was very hot and we had left the flap over the bed up meaning I was lying under the stars watching it pass by.

The sand continued this morning for a further 120kms. Three fingers of dunes from the Sahara run southwards well into Mauritania and these were what we had to drive over. Driving in sand has never been my forte but managed the day without getting stuck once. It was a very full on day as the rest of the 380km drive was over either further sand or corrugated firmer surface. Often sand hillocks would come upon us unexpectedly testing the springs of the bakkie and causing some of the crockery to be smashed when the cupboard latch gave way. Also a mixture of olive oil, chilli sauce and paprika spreading in the cupboard was not a pretty sight. Joan was not happy.

I have spoken before about the fiches and how we think they more than likely are thrown into the bottom drawer, but not the case. Even along this track there are a few small settlements with a gendarmerie who we were obliged to give a fiche to. At one of them the bloke knew where we had been since entering the country. It seems they report to HQ our movements. Sounds a little 'Big Brother' but going on the route we did today where we met one car over 380kms it could be quite on the cards for the car to break down or get horrible bogged in sand. If that happened they would know where we had reported in last and therefore where to look for us. At our lunch stop we had just passed a small settlement and as there were no gendarme signs didn't even think about going in to find them. Next thing we knew a police landcruiser had pulled up with an irate officer wanting to know why we didn't report in. We were all apologetic shook hands then off they raced with their fiche.

We were interested to see one aspect of modern technology making the lives of these isolated people easier are the big water bladders that are seen near the setlements. Some would measure a good 10 metres by four and just lie on the ground fenced off from the goats. A truck or rail wagon comes along and fills them from time to time. In some places the animals utilize them as well. Saves a lot of fetch and carry for the women.

Joan has been carrying a few old spectacles with us to hand out to needy people. I noticed when we filled up with diesel before heading along the track the old bloke had difficulty looking at the figures on the calculator. We offered him a pair, he tried them on and was so delighted gave us a further 10 litres of diesel.

We are camped tonight some 20kms from the end of the track and will pass into Western Sahara, now part of Morocco, tomorrow.

8^th July. On Sea Cliffs Overlooking Atlantic 30kms south of Dakhla, Morocco.

The sand had to have a few final grabs at us before hitting the asphalt this morning. But we made it, pumped the tyres up once more, then headed west on a good surface. It wasn't far to the border, the Mauritanian side was very efficient as was the Moroccan authorities. A little bit more involved there as they don't accept the carnet and the paperwork for the bakkie was more time consuming. It was the 3 kms that separate the two border posts that took the time, taking us at least twenty minutes to negotiate the distance. Trucks were hardly moving it was so rough. Would have to be the worst short stretch we have travelled on the trip. Even overshadows Angola.

Once into Western Sahara the road was good, with no traffic. We made good time to where we are bush camped tonight. There are cliffs all along this stretch of coastline, it is very windy and quite cool. A pleasant change to what we have been experiencing the last few weeks. We will head up towards Morocco proper the next couple of days and maybe make it to Essaouira for the 13^th.

9^th July. Camp

A trying long drive today. Over 600kms into a strong, gale force at times, wind. Sand was blowing constantly. The desert we have experienced so far in Western Sahara is a scrappy, boring type with none of the grand sand dunes we have experienced in Mauritania. There are a few of the type of dune, isolated but moving forward smothering everything in its path, but generally not very interesting. The road follows the coastline for much of the drive and that is quite spectacular when viewed from a safe distance. Last night was a beautiful spot on the cliff only spoilt by the gusting wind. Tonight it is even stronger causing us to lower the roof at night for the first time on the trip. Towns are few and far between and have been built in the Arabic-modern design with high columns and arches in front of grand government buildings. One of the towns had 6 lanes going through the centre with hardly a car on them, that was at lunchtime.

We are camped at Camp le Roi Bedouin . A beautiful place overlooking a scenic plain. Tomorrow we hope to almost get to Morocco proper. Another long drive but will be more interesting after that.

10^th July. Camp el Bacore, Ifni Morocco.

Todays drive was much more interesting. The scenery was more varied, still with the cliff coastline to our left but the desert changed to once more classical sand dunes, expansive wadis and a few estuaries where greater flamingos were feeding. During the morning the wind kept up its gale force intensity making it hard to keep the bakkie on the asphalt. In places backhoes were working transferring the encroaching sand from one side of the road to the other. The road would have been covered completely in a very short time if not for their effort. Even with that work there were stretches of road down to one lane.

Passing through a small town I noticed a shop selling eggs, something we needed. I went in, the bloke sold me half a dozen then pointed to the 30 or so pullets in a fenced area, no, I didn't want a chook thank you. I had forgotten that in Morocco you pick your live pullet out, they kill it, pluck and gut it and you have a fresh bird ready for the pot in 5 minutes. Makes you want to become a vegetarian almost.

We made it to Guelmin today which is really the en ofd Western Sahara for us. Unfortunately Camping International had closed down. The nearest camp was here at Ifni, on the coast. A pleasant site with us being the only non-Moroccans in the park. We are once more enjoying the odd glass of wine after suffering our way through Mauritania. Reminds us a bit on Iran where the ladies where coats to the beach and bathe in them if they feel like cooling off. At that time we were the only non-Iranians in a park with people so sandwiched together when we opened the slider in the morning we had a family sleeping on the ground where we would have stepped out. We got to know each other very quickly and enjoyed breakfast together.

So finally into Morocco. I will keep this blog going until we cross into Spain. The speedo clicked over 20,000kms today. That's since leaving Pretoria. It will be nearing 25,000 by the time we get to England. So often we have told people along the way that we are heading to Morocco, then on to Europe. Well here we are. It has been hard at times, at Libreville I seriously thought I had taken on too much, that was the low point of the trip. 

We were not eating well, it was humid and hot and the roads weren't the best. But after Nigeria when we could ease up a bit, it improved, we put a bit of weight on, felt better in ourselves and we knew the worst was over. It was a long drive and at our age, perhaps our last adventure. Many people have said west Africa was the hardest overland experience, if you can do that you can manage any trip. I don't think we will be selling the van in the UK, just in case the urge takes us somewhere else next year.

11^th July. Agadir Camping, Agadir, Morocco.

Not the best of camps with a disgusting shower block that even had the Ukrainians next to us washing under the tap.

A short pleasant drive today through built up areas where floral gardens started to make an appearance. The country reminds us of Spain a lot; barren hills, donkeys and little farmers' cars.

Morocco would have to have some of the best signage on the road of any country. Puts Australia to shame. Every kilometre the post shows the distance to one of 3-4 towns ahead. The road signs are in Arabic and English and the warning signs are profuse. Drivers are good apart from the usual erratic taxi drivers. And the roads are generally very good with nary a pot hole. Even their back roads are sealed or good piste.

I discovered the gale force winds and blowing sand the last couple of days have etched the windscreen of the bakkie. Can still see through it ok but may have to be replaced some time in the future.

2nd July St Louis

 2nd July. 

Papers arrived last Tuesday but notification not put in PO Box. Off to Mauritania now

29^th June. Reserve de Bandia, East of Daka.

Sitting with Christian the German who instigated this reserve, two juvenile warthogs sidled up looking for offerings. While talking I casually held my hand out behind me, they slowly approached sniffing quietly until touching my hand, they gave a gentle bunt with their gristly snout. I was left with a snotty muddy hand but a touching experience. They are still an animal we enjoy watching and as Christian says, very intelligent. They are also very family orientated with they young not leaving the family circle until at least 2 yrs of age.

The park we intended heading to north of St Louis, a world renowned haven for birds, was closed. Other offerings were slim to fill in time making us decide to head south some 300kms to this reserve. Christian has been in Senegal some 30 odd years, a forestry engineer, he started this reserve from scratch, capturing and transporting animals from Southern Africa as well as Senegalese specimens. We will see some tomorrow. His reminisces of their catching were entertaining.

Still no papers but am now in cahoots with the PO staff who are keeping an eye out for the parcel.

The drive from Zebrabar to St Louis is most enjoyable passing through tidal wetlands where many bird species can be seen from the road as well as cattle herds, donkeys and a few feral camels. Fishermen are active casting their nets in the deeper parts, We have seen quite large catches rewarding some of the casts. On the way in there is a small reserve that concentrates on severely endangered species that once roamed the Sahel and Sahara. The scimitar oryx is a beautiful pale animal, large, with curved scimitar-like antlers curving back from the head. The park houses some 70 of those, whereas some of the smaller antelope are few in numbers, and, although slowly reproducing, the threat of inbreeding looms large. We spoke to a Tunisian researcher about the problem. It is something they hope to keep under control by importing some of the few animals that are elsewhere in the world. Or at least their semen. Also in the reserve are flocks of greater flamingos feeding in the shallow waters as well as man made nesting islands where hundreds of grey headed and gulls were shielding their chicks. It was so nice to get back into some wildlife watching, seems ages since the last time.

30^th June. Campement Park de Popenguine, east of Dakar.

The drive in the park this morning was most disappointing. We would not recommend it to other overlanders. For $70 we saw few animals, none we hadn't seen before in much greater numbers and better surroundings. Spotted hyenas in a cage is no better than a zoo. That kind of money is almost what you pay for Serengetti or Etosha. Much better to come to the coast where we are now. The nature reserve here runs along the coast, has rocky cliffs nature walks, a great place to spend a day or two recuperating. The campement is run by local ladies, a large area with showers that need better water pressure and and a clean toilet. We intended eating at a restaurant that had a nice sign outside, but Uzman, the 2^nd in command of the reserve said, 'No, that is for white people, very expensive, walk along to Bafoma Cafe, it is much nicer.' We did. Sitting at a table over looking the surf and reserve, with a group of visiting white students playing on the sand and in the surf and eating a delicious fish meal is quite memorable. And being offered a nightcap at the end of the meal quite unexpected.

On leaving the game reserve this morning we drove down to the coast to an area now taken over by Europeans who have bought villas in walled estates where to spend the northern winters. It is the Italian or French Rivieras plonked down in Senegal with all the accompanying boutiques and souvenir shops with hardened white women driving quad bikes down the main street to round off the picture. It even had a Casino Supermarket that St Louis doesn't even have. It wasn't until we drove down a pot holed street did we finally glimpse the sea. This was the local area where children flew kites on the waters edge, repaired boats and a fisherman lit a fire to barbecue the fish he had just brought in. A bit of humanity amongst such western indulgence. We escaped and went to the next turnoff to the beach ending up in Popenguine, a few villas have been built here but nothing like the obscenity of further down the coast.

1^st July. Bush Camping on Somone Estuary south of Popenguine.

The bakkie is ten metres from the estuary waters. We arrived early afternoon after a circuitous drive through a couple of coastal villages and a drive along the estuary foreshore to a couple of restaurants near the river mouth. On the other side of the water is Somone, the northernmost part of the European enclave. Large villas overlook the water with boats moored alongside. A few cross the water in runabouts to lunch at the eating places. We could have camped near one of these but it was hot, no shade and perhaps hassles from the restaurant owners. We drove back a km or so and found this secluded spot with an excellent view of the hundreds of water birds resting on some of the tidal spits out a short distance. Cormorants, pelicans, at least 4 types of herons, lapwings, pied kingfishers, hundreds of terns, waders, it was all there to see. The point we stopped at had shallow water and locals would walk the ½ km of water from one side to the other. The women would raise their tops as they reached deeper water to keep them dry. A couple of the women were picking oysters and clams from the bottom, one of them came over to the van, asked for a knife then shucked a couple of oysters for us to try. They were big and juicy. She went back, retrieved her bucket bringing it back to us. It had about 3 doz oysters and half filled with clams. $6 for the lot. We only had three in change, for that we got all the oysters and half the clams. I'm always a bit scared of shucking them, next thing we knew she had grabbed the knife, picked up a bit of cement for a stone then did it for us. We didn't know what to offer her but Joan has been carrying these old spectacles around the whole trip wanting to give them out to some oldies. We offered a pair to her, her eyes lit up, not sure if she was going to use them herself, share them or perhaps hock them off. Oysters and clams beat corn fritters for tea any day.

A group of teenagers came across the water laughing and splashing each other. They came over and asked for a box of matches and some water, then went back, lit a fire and cooked what I think were clams as well. It was quite a scene with this group cooking on the smokey fire, a woman praying on the waters edge nearby, and a bloke washing his horse in the water. He then hooked it back up to the cart, they all hopped in then off they toddled calling out 'Bon appetit' as they went past. So once more we are alone, the odd sea bird calling and the sound of the surf in the distance. An end to a most surprisingly memorable day.

2^nd July Derelict Hotel, Mbayo de la Mer. North of Dakar

Should have stayed another night at the estuary. A camping sign was marked on the map for this place, but once here discovered a pretty run down area with no camping. The security bloke opened the gate to this derelict hotel for us. At least there is a breeze and we can hear the surf as we go to sleep. Surprisingly we are getting a light shower of rain as well which should cool things down somewhat. An uneventful day today, starting to head north. Will get to St Louis tomorrow and if still no papers, will take a chance with a photocopy and head into Mauritania on Wednesday.

Weds 27th June. Zebrabar

Weds 27^th June. Zebrabar, Senegal

A sad day yesterday. Luke rang us during the morning to say Huck, Luke'sdog had died. We feel so helpless being half way around the world at a time when Luke must be feeling so low and distraught. It appears he ate some rat poison that had become exposed. He was such a garbage guts but was loved by all of us especially Luke who will feel so alone without him. Thank you Jane & Gerry for once more stepping into the breech and helping Luke at such a time, we really appreciate it. He was old and had had liver problems in the past, these factors wouldn't have helped him fight the poison no doubt.

Still no papers. Almost 2 weeks since they were posted, we are feeling low at the moment and this holdup doesn't help. There is a NP to the north that has one of the best variety of birdlife in the continent, we will go up on the weekend if the Green Card doesn't arrive by then

Last night we were invited out by Muweja and Charlotte, a Congolese couple who have lived in St Louis for 22 years. Muweja is a professor at the local university and has led an interesting academic life using a scholarship to further his studies in Belgium before taking up posts in Addis Ababa, and Kinshasha then settling in St Louis. The restaurant was on a pontoon in the river with the lights of the bridge and mainland nearby. We appreciated their generosity.

25th June. Zebrabar, Senegal

17^th June. Tambacounda, Senegal.

N13 46'23.9” W013 40'52.6”

The Michelin map of North & West Africa has a list of 73 places with Max & Min temps throughout the year. They spread over a vast area. Kayes, a city in S/W Mali has the hottest temps of them all. In May the average is 46c, drops to 43c in June. Six of the months the temps are over 40 and the coldest month has a average temp of 66.We were to go to Kayes but this new route took us some 200kms south. But the temperature would have been similar. It was always our intention to stay in rooms with A/C if it became unbearable, the only trouble was, on this new road, no hotels or auberges have been built yet. We ended up, in a quarry not far from the Senegalese border. The 12v fan helped a bit but it was still almost unbearable. A breeze is often present during the day but that always seem to drop on dusk. Tonight we are in a room with a vintage 80s a/c rattling away, bliss. The land is drying out. At times the only greenery are the trees scattered over the landscape. It is the wet season but as of yet little rain has fallen.

No food served on the premises but the restaurant was a short distance down the road. We sat at an outside table, lattice work shielded us from the street. Before long we had 20 or so urchins on the other side of the lattice, hands poking through, their begging tins seemingly empty. Hard to eat chicken & chips in such circumstances, we had to move.

Today we had a good example of how the language barrier can cause misunderstandings. The road from the border passed through the middle of the biggest national park in the country. We had seen the odd monkey but coming onto a bridge just before the park HQ the waterhole below us had sitatunga antelope, baboons, warthogs, monkeys and a couple of African fish eagles. I had to stop and take some photos, there were no other traffic. On leaving the bridge a guard pulled us up. Trying to get the gist of what he was saying we thought, because we had stopped on the bridge, he was wanting us to pay the park fee. If we had've just driven through we wouldn't have had to but because we stopped, it was using the park. We complained strongly insinuating all he wanted to do was get money off us. This upset him, they are having a blitz on corruption here in Senegal, he profusely insisted that that wasn't the case. Then through his little English and my few words of French we realized that all the problem was I shouldn't have stopped on the bridge, I should have parked where we were standing, and walk back. We were all apologies, gave him a couple of lollies, hand shakes all round, and we were off. So easy to get the wrong idea.

We didn't spend long in Mali, a pity but not the place to hang around at present. The new road was built by the EU. It was fast, no speed humps, a pleasure to drive on.

19^th June. Chez Salim, Lac Rose, Senegal

Bit of a tourist dive this area. The sand dunes that separate the lake from the sea are a mecca for the quad bike fraternity. Chez Salim would have 50 or so parked as well as larger 4x4s that take the more less adventurous for a drive. The lake has a pinkish tinge due to the chemicals in the water, hence the name. Saltier than the Dead Sea between Israel/Jordan we were encouraged to take a dip. Not my idea of fun. This is the low season however, the place is almost deserted, we have a lovely campsite below palms with a power point handy for the 2^nd battery. I think I mentioned having it seen to in Togo but the repairs were short lived. Good batteries are difficult to get here esp the deep cycle type. We may have to wait until we get to UK to get a good one.

The drive down from Tambacounda yesterday was through wind swept dry arid country. However the baobabs were shooting new growth perhaps heralding the approach of rain. Such a beautiful tree it was refreshing to see them bursting into life. It was an excellent road donated by the EU. Each village had a sign reminding you of the fact. Senegal has a major trash problem. It would have to be one of the messiest countries we have passed through. On each side of any town and often through it as well the amount of rubbish esp plastic bags is shocking. Often animals and people are foraging through the trash picking out anything of value. I think only Nigeria would come close in this aspect. Consider Congo/Brazzaville where no plastic bags are available. Even the meat and vegetables are enclosed in paper bags in their supermarkets. It makes you feel the people or the government just don't care.

Tomorrow we hope to get the last of our visas, Mauritania. It will be our 14^th I think. Apart from Benin & Togo, they have all involved going to embassies to arrange. At times it has caused anxious uncertainty as there is no guarantee they will give it to you as what happened to us with the Nigerian crowd in Canberra. Many people heading south have had to alter their plans because they lacked DRC or Angola. Spending 2 months in the DRC travelling the length of the country to bypass Angola would be taking the adventurous spirit to the extreme. The web site of Radio Baobab gives an absorbing idea of what they went through on that route. It is also well written and hard to stop reading. Might be best to access it through The HUBB of Horizons Unlimited web site. So we have been pretty lucky in getting ours. Cheaper than expected in many cases and much quicker than we were told. Also the people at the consulates who we have dealt with have in the main been friendly, helpful and pleased we will be visiting their country. One or two have stood out: Mrs Mana, the consular officer at the Senegalese consulate in Ouagadougou was so interested in where we had been, she gave us a 2 month multiple entry visa, much better than we required and came out to hand us back our passports personally. Even the lady at the Angolan consulate in Pretoria. Spelt out exactly what we needed to write in a letter of introduction, stayed open later for us to get back, then gave our passports back to us earlier than we were told so we could get our application into the next embassy that same day. That one took 8 days but even that was quick for that crowd. But, I may be repeating myself with this story, the most relaxed visa issuance was at the Togo border where the officer sat under the mango tree at a desk issuing the visa. I wanted to take his photo but he said 'Mango tree yes, desk yes, Me no!'

20^th June. Phar de Esperance Mission (Beacon of Hope) Mammele, Dakar.

It often happens, after a couple of days rest like we had at Lac Rose, the body relaxes making the following day a draining experience. The Mauritanean Embassy was hard to find in the shambling metropolis of Dakar. We resorted to following a taxi, luckily we were in the area and the driver knew where it was. $2 well spent. The visa forms consisted of 2 pages all in French. Even a Frenchman also applying who could speak a little English couldn't work out what they wanted. But what we wrote satisfied the consular officer and after handing over $81 per person were told to come back the next day to pick them up.

From there we headed to the Oceanium, a dive centre that also allowed camping. It was very nice, right on the water with the Isle de Gorree in view a few kms off shore. We had lunch then put the bed out, opened the door to get a breeze, then fell asleep for a couple of hours. We were both very tired. Joan was woken by a beggar tapping her on the shoulder wanting alms, he got a short shrift. On waking we thought it wise to charge the battery so took off to a Casino Supermarche that came up on Garmin. Took a while to find it even with that but worth it as apart from getting provisions we picked up a sim card for the country and Joan was able to have her glasses adjusted to make them more comfortable. We went to a newsagent for the sim card, he didn't sell them but sent one of his staff out into the street to get one for us. Then they installed it, made sure it was working at no extra charge. I think they were amused being able to help us and something to tell their family that night of two oldies, couldn't speak a word of French, and how we were able to help them.

At that point we decided a stay in an hotel may be more recuperating. The LP had one near the Mammelle lighthouse, sounded good but of course no coordinates. We went to the lighthouse, asked a few people with differing answers. It was almost dark, in desperation we pulled into this mission that had a big area outside the inner gate but suitable for a night. The guard wouldn't commit as 'le chef' wasn't there, just then a group of young Americans came loping along carrying handfuls of wood. They could speak English but only one had a smattering of French. By a series of phone calls to their supervisor and the guard's 'chef' we were given permission. The mission is interdenominational having accommodation for visiting church groups. The young group were running crusades on the university campus. They came from different schools in the US. It was a godsend for us. The lighthouse was directly above us, a beacon in the night.

21^st June. Zebrabar, near St Louis, Senegal.

The other refuge for Overlanders, we made the Zebrabar late afternoon. It is a real haven, unfortunately we are the only ones here. The Mali coup and the wet season have severely affected people heading along the west coast. It is built on the edge of a long lagoon that makes up part of a national park. The birdlife here is reputed to be phenomanal and sitting out this morning that seems to be the case. It would be even more so if one was visiting around Christmas when the migratory birds were in residence. I didn't think I would wish to come back to Africa but a visit here with a few birders, at that time of the year, would be worth considering.

We picked up our passports around lunchtime then headed north. The land became drier and dunes began to appear. But the towns were still as lively as elsewhere in the country. Just a shame about the rubbish. Filling in time to pick up the p/ps was spent at the Sea Plaza, an ultramodern shopping centre that, fortunately, had a hair dresser for Joan. Three months between cuts is a long time. She looks a stunner again.

23rdJune. Zebrabar, Senegal.

St Louis was the first established French settlement in Western Africa. Now stretched to the mainland, most of the action is still on two elongated islands connected to each other and the main land by 4 bridges. Fishing is still its major industry with these sleek wooden boats pulled up along the waters edge, being built, repaired or unloading the latest catch. It is just a seething mass of people engrossed in their everyday life. Some areas can be a bit smelly but even that can be forgiven, it adds a little to the charm of the place. I was wanting to drive through one of the side streets to the ocean but many were impassable due to the clothes lines stretched across the sandy tracks. We needed to buy some bread but lacked small change, they never have any in most of the shops, a bloke doing some sign writing nearby sensed a problem and offered to make up the difference out of his own pocket. We had Euros but he wouldn't accept those, it was a gift he said.

While there we met Tommy a member of the diplomatic corp for the Mauritanian government, he had escaped over the border to have a few drinks, as I said earlier Mauritania is a dry country. We should have a good time there if they are all like him, shouting us drinks in the early afternoon and effusively showing us the places we MUST visit when we cross the border. He was a delight.

Back at the Zebrabar I have been spending my time sitting in an easy chair taking note of the variety of birds that visit us. The acacias are in flower now attracting many types including the Yellow Crowned Gonolek, the beautiful sunbird and the red-billed firefinch. Looking at the photos I have taken I realized that one of the birds I snapped at the NP where we had the discussion with the ranger was the elusive African Finfoot. That was the bird I spent early mornings trying to see in South Africa. Down there it was at its southern most point of its range, up here it is at its norther extremity. We have also seen two Abysinnian Ground Hornbills and an Abysinnian roller amongst many others. Native animals are scarce but the birds make up for them.

24^th June. Zebrabar

We seem to be slowly recuperating and getting our strength back with this prolonged stay at Zebrabar. But then it is a perfect place for this to happen. On the banks of the Senegal River and part of a national park the consistent westerly cools the bakkie delightfully at night. The place is inundated with crabs. Hordes of medium sized ones on the beach and at night these blue monsters make an appearance. I was coming outside barefoot to have a pee during the night until we saw some of them scurrying away from us as we walked back from the restaurant. It will be slipons in future. Then there are the baboons Joan saw today. We have wondered what has been shaking the van at night more than just what the wind can do and then there are mysterious things being dropped outside. I even went out to investigate last night. With the sighting of the baboons it all fits into place.

Reading material is starting to cause a problem; Joan is an avid reader and myself also. The bookshops stock French and the swap shops seem to have few English books, mainlf German and French. We have a Kindle on which I downloaded the complete works of Tolstoy as well as others so we will never be completely devoid of material. At the moment I am 29% through 'War & Peace', the library here had one of Jeremy Clarkson's books made up of 40 odd chapters each one of a car he tested. I thought I would have a break but what a difference; from wondering who Prince Nicholas is going to marry, Sonya or Princess Mary to Clarkson's crude but funny musings with lines such as 'Elton Jon has all the money in the world and he still looks like he has a Huguenot carpet tile on his bonce' We have read many African books on this trip often going through the areas the book is set at the same time. It gives added interest to the trip.

We were told the mail takes two days to get from France to St Louis, if that is the case we should have the papers early next week.

The last three days has seen large groups of youth spending the day here. Ranging from primary school to university students it is a great place for them to let off steam. The lodge provides kayaks and the such for use as well as other things to occupy the day guests

15th June. Bamako Mali

 Easiest 400km drive of the trip today to Bamako. Staying at a lovely camp that has closed due to the lack of visitors since the coup. Jean has shown us a new road to Senegal meaning we will be able to get across the border earlier tha n expected. Unsafe to travel to the north still. Gary

11^th June. Ouagadougou. BF.

Not sure if the signs are correct up town but at least 2 of them read 43c. It is very hot, dry, but still not pleasant to spend too long outside.

Last night we met Georges & Connie. Georges is attached to the Luxembourg Embassy in Ouaga and has been very helpful in giving us up to date info on the present situation in this part of the world. I first contacted him when planning the trip as they had traveled down West Africa a couple of years ago and I had been needing further details on parts of the trip. He was always happy to oblige. Good to put a face to a name. Connie assists the administrator of a large orphanage. They spent 2 years travelling in Sth America, whetting our appetite somewhat. Luxembourg has many aid projects in the Sahel that warrants embassies here and in Dakar.

Had a good day today. Mali visa in 30 minutes, Senegalese one in 3 hours. Having the Senegalese one means we don't have to hang around Bamako getting it there. Should be able to pass through Mali in 3-4 days. Georges said that things could heat up shortly when the army tries to regain the northern cities from the Tuareg rebels.

I had a break from driving today when we went back to pickup the passports. Taxis here are mainly clapped out Mercs. The one that took us there came to a stop with the driver climbing under the car to reattach the gears or something. Then we continued the trip in 2^nd gear, revving like mad as we sped along. Coming back that vehicle was slightly better.

Tomorrow we head Bobo-Dioulasso in the west of the country. A pretty town in an interesting area.

12^th June. On way to Parc National de Deux-Bales. BF

Wish Joan had been more assertive and I knew deep down, with water lying everywhere, the chances of elephants coming to the waterhole near the camp was zilch. But I pushed on over a diabolical track, a local boy riding shotgun on the side to guide us. LP said the camp, only 7kms from the main road, was very nice. When we finally reached the encampement there was only a caretaker there. The waterhole was part of a fast flowing muddy river with no chance of seeing any animals let alone elephants. He wanted $32 for the night, it was 6pm by this time and we weren't going to hand over that sort of money. So we headed back, the boy once again on the sideboard. On the edge of the park was a good place to camp but felt it very unfair to get the bloke to walk home. We continued with darkness setting in until he tapped on the roof. He had worked out a compromise, he was now close enough to walk, and we could go back to our camp. All this done in sign language, a very intelligent lad.

Setting up camp in the dark with a herd of cattle finding their own way back to the compound. Silent ghosts passing by. The odd one would stop and stare before continuing. Two girls in a donkey cart laden with water, gave us a friendly wave as they plodded along. Donkeys are the mode of transport up here.

The morning was spent arranging the Green Card Ins for Europe. Normally quite a simple ahel job but with the AU phone not working in BF it meant the NAB couldn't text us with the confirmation number for the International transfer. Emma, at home at the moment, came to the rescue.

14^th June. Chutes de Farako, Near Sikasso, Mali.

N11 12'33.6” W005 27'00.9”

The waterfalls aren't much, just a metre or so drop, but the setting is a perfect place to bushcamp the night. A wide expanse of flat rock which continues into the river with the water trickling over various branches. A large tree offered shade for us to stop early. We were surprised to see a hammerkop pottering around near the river. One of our favourite African birds, we first saw them in Ethiopia then down east Africa and around the south. Now we have seen them in the Sahel in the west. They have such a distinct shaped head. Storm has finally hit us bringing an appreciated drop in the temperature.

So into Mali. I always intended going this route but the coup did cause 2^nd thoughts but things have quietened in this part of the country. The alternative was to travel through 3-4 further countries with the Guinea roads reputed to be very difficult to traverse in the wet which is now. The border crossing was again less than an hour with both sides knowing what to do with the carnet. The old immigration officer was a little confused though trying to fill the forms we usually fill out ourselves for us. Gave up on 'profession' we said retraite which means retired but how we said it confused him no end.

10th June. Ouagadougou. Burkina Faso

10^th June. Le Pavillion de Verte Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.

It's pronounced Waagadoogoo actually. There was a distinct change in climate driving north yesterday. The greenness gave way to dry dirt, the vegetation changed, we are now in the Sahel. This is the strip of land that stretches across Africa below the Sahara. Known for it's dust haze at certain times of the year as well as a dry hot climate it is where Arab features come to the fore in the people. Too hot to sleep in the bakkie we have taken refuge in an air conditioned room overlooking a shaded courtyard. On turning the A/C off this morning we could hear a couple of rams baaaing in yard behind our room and chooks clucking and doves cooing. It was like being back in the country. Since then the rams have had their throats cut and are lying in a pool of blood which the chooks are happy to indulge in. A very pastoral scene.

The traffic here are the best behaved we have met in any of the cities, oncoming traffic even stops to let you turn left. I had better curtail my assertive (Joan says aggressive) tendencies.

Tomorrow we hope to get our Mali visas then start to head towards the border. When we tell the locals we are going to Mali often they suggest we change our plans because of the troubles, but when we point out where we are going, to the south west and that we will be passing through quickly, this seems to satisfy them. They were quite concerned for us.